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Archive for Sunday, September 1, 2002

Fall makeup focuses on eyes

September 1, 2002

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— To match the mix of opulence and richness that she is seeing in fall fashions, makeup artist Charlie Green says she's using color cosmetics to create exotic tapestries in shades of green, wine, purple and "mochaccino."

The baroque look lends itself to deeper color, she explains.

"Big doe eyes are the focal point seeped in depths of color and rich textures, or subtle neutrals with pops of mauve, pink or eggplant, and set with kohl liners and lots of mascara," according to Green, who put together a fall preview for Sephora.

Since the emphasis is on the eyes, Green recommends using barely tinted peach-colored lipsticks and blushes. But the almost natural-looking lips and cheeks are a prime canvas for glitter, she adds.

"There's quite a lot of glitter out there," says Green, who for the long-lasting look uses a damp brush to apply the glitter. "The makeup shouldn't be a flat or matte. The colors have a two-tone quality or satin finish."

For a flower child-chic face, Green suggests using a shimmery peach eyeshadow on eyelids with turquoise shadow pressed into the eye crease and under the last line.

The eyes of her bohemian-luxe look are created with a glittery purple shadow smudged with a light violet shadow on the lid. Using a damp brush, press a dark brown shadow into eye corners and under the lash line to highlight intense color.

An all-over peach color gets blended high on the cheek bone with a dash of deep purple on the apples. Try a light layer of Glitter Lipstick in violet on the mouth, Green suggests.

Green acknowledges, though, these rather dramatic looks aren't for everyone.

Other new cosmetics options include Cargo's palette of neutral and sheer berry and brown colors that pay homage to the elegance of Ingrid Bergman, Elizabeth Taylor and Grace Kelly.

I-Iman national makeup artist Jay Manuel offers these tips to get a sexy cool look: Apply a cream-colored shadow over the entire eye; follow with three coats of black lash mascara; use a plum-colored pencil to line both the eyes and lips; shape cheeks with an orange-tint bronzer; and add sparkle with a shimmery mauve lipstick topped with a high-shine gold gloss.

Makeup artist Sue Devitt, the founder of Sue Devitt Studio cosmetics, says most women ease into a new beauty routine instead of changing everything all at once.

"Most women tend to wear a neutral palette because it's a safety zone. To encourage them out of it, I'd use an eye intensifier or eyeliner with an intense color a deep smoky purple would be good around the lashline, both above and below, and smudge it with the fingertip. Layer it over beige shadow," Devitt explains.

It's a noticeable change that will modernize someone's makeup and bring them in line with fashion trends, she says, but it's an inexpensive change, which might encourage experimentation. "You can do it for season. It's a throwaway to be funky and fun but not necessarily a staple item."

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