Scaasi puts flash in fashion

Designer embraces bright colors, bubble skirts, feathers

? Arnold Scaasi, who changed the world’s perception of Barbra Streisand with her almost see-through Oscar outfit in 1969, not only likes flamboyance he loves it.

Throughout his almost 50-year career, Scaasi has embraced bright colors, bubble skirts and even feathers, which he calls one of his signatures.

“It should be fun to get dressed. I like exciting and pretty clothes that help women feel exciting and pretty,” he says.

A rainbow of red, purple, green, blue and, yes, some black gowns that represent the fashion designer’s best work are now on display at the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York.

A sexier-than-you’d expect black lace number that Scaasi made for first lady Laura Bush is there, as is a pink gown with silver sequins he made for Barbara Bush when she was in the White House. The retrospective also features a tiered white dress made for Joan Rivers and a black halter-top babydoll dress worn by Natalie Wood.

One of the most eye-catching of them all might be the gown with a blue and white gingham bodice and a bright yellow feather skirt. Of course, it is displayed with its complementary yellow feather wrap.

“Scaasi’s clothes are designed to make an entrance,” says Ellen Shanley, curator of costume at the museum. “His use of fabrics and materials of bold colors and daring combinations of color in unique shapes are breathtaking.”

A feather bridal gown from 1985, which Scaasi says is one of the 22 he sold in that silhouette, is another dress that’s hard to walk by without feeling a little awed but also a little curious as to who can pull off these over-the-top styles.

“Anything can be done with the right body. Look at Britney (Spears); she can pull anything off. And there is no color that you or anyone else can’t wear. You only don’t wear a color because years ago your mother told you it didn’t look good on you,” says Scaasi, who is wearing a red, white and blue striped shirt and tie as he helps put the finishing touches on the exhibit, called “Scaasi: Exuberant Fashion,” which runs through Jan. 4.

Some of the gowns came from Scaasi’s archives, some are on loan from his clients and at least one dress was spotted by a Vogue editor on eBay.

The Canadian-born designer trained both in Montreal and Paris and he worked for Charles James in New York before opening his first ready-to-wear business in 1956. Over the years he has won numerous awards, mostly for his eveningwear, including a lifetime achievement award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America.

An elaborate Scaasi gown, or even a daytime suit such as a simple red skirt set made for Laura Bush, doesn’t happen overnight. A dress takes a minimum of three weeks because of all the fittings and details, the designer explains.

“Even Laura Bush can’t call me today for something tomorrow,” he says.

Scaasi says working directly with clients and making clothes to order is particularly rewarding because he has the opportunity to establish intimate relationships with the women. He says it was more fun than you’d think working with former first lady Mamie Eisenhower on strapless dresses, and that he and Streisand didn’t set out to make a shocking outfit for the Academy Awards; they were just looking to show her as a modern young woman, since she had always worn frilly period costumes on screen.

The perfect dress is the one that makes the wearer feel beautiful and desirable, Scaasi says, because then the wearer is confident, which is one of the most attractive attributes a woman can have.

“Fashion, it’s really about feeling good. It’s been that way since the beginning of time,” he says.”I didn’t invent this.”