Cold weather crops, those that can be planted in late winter or early spring, are coming to the markets now, and none is more lush this time of year than spinach.

For the moment, please, pass by the bags of spinach in the produce aisles and head to the overflowing bins of loose spinach leaves and try not to elbow the guy next to you. You’ll meet him again at the cherry bin.

Loose and bundled spinach leaves are abundant in supermarkets this time of year. The tender leaves are especially good in salads.

How to buy

Spinach can be curly or flat leafed, and these two textures are very different. Use the flat leafed in salads or in dishes that require a minimum of cooking. The curly variety is more fibrous, so save that for recipes that require the spinach to be cooked longer, say in a spinach-cheese pie. Whichever variety you find, this time of year you should be able to select small, tender leaves, deep green in color and never yellow or wilted.

How to prepare

Move quickly and use the spinach as soon as possible. If you must refrigerate it, wrap it in a paper towels or store it in an open plastic bag.

Keep it away from moisture. When it’s time to use the spinach, wash it thoroughly, since sand and dirt cling to its veins and stems. Start with one bowl of water and swirl the leaves. Then move the leaves to another bowl of water, and persist until no trace of grit is at the bottom of the bowl.

If you’re making spinach salad, spin-dry the leaves or pat them dry with paper towels. If you’re steaming the spinach, there’s no need to dry it. The moisture left from washing may be all you need to achieve the perfect tender steamed result.

Small leaves have small stems, so trimming may not be necessary this time of year. And remember that a bowl brimming with spinach will shrink alarmingly when cooked, so make sure you have plenty on hand. Always quit steaming or cooking the spinach at least 30 seconds before you think you should stop. This ensures tender green leaves that are not overdone.

How to use

Steamed, braised or stir-fried, spinach pairs well with garlic, sesame seeds, Asian flavors such as ginger and soy, tofu, mushrooms, red onion, lemon, all manner of nuts, especially walnuts and pine nuts, and cheeses such as feta and ricotta. Uncooked, spinach makes a wonderful salad, especially paired with strawberries, or shredded with other greens of spring, such as arugula or garlic greens. Or use raw spinach as a platform for cooked meats: Plunk a sizzling hot lamb chop or chicken fillet on top of spinach leaves dressed lightly with a balsamic vinaigrette, and the heat of the meat will wilt the leaves right before your eyes. This combination works equally with a grilled salmon fillet.

	1 head butter or Bibb lettuce1 small bunch young spinach leaves2 grapefruit2 avocados4 teaspoons sherry vinegar2 teaspoons raspberry or other fruit or white vinegar1 shallot, finely diced1/4 teaspoon salt6 to 7 tablespoons virgin olive oil1 teaspoon mint, finely chopped2 teaspoons chives, finely slicedBlack pepper to tasteSeparate the leaves of lettuce and remove the spinach stems if necessary. Wash the greens thoroughly and dry them in a spinner. If the spinach leaves are small, leave them whole. If they are large, layer several leaves together, roll them up and slice them into wide or narrow ribbons. Place them loosely in a kitchen towel and refrigerate until needed.Slice a thin piece off the top and bottom of each grapefruit. Using a very sharp knife, peel the grapefruit, working down the sides and removing the white pith along with the peel. Holding the grapefruit over a bowl to catch the juice, cut each section loose from its membrane and toss lightly with the juice in the bowl.Peel the avocados, slice them in half and remove the seeds. Lay the halves cut-side down and slice them at the desired thickness crosswise at an angle. Set aside.Combine the sherry and fruit vinegars, shallot and salt in a bowl. Whisking constantly, slowly add the oil in a steady stream, whisking until completely emulsified. Taste and adjust balance of vinegar and oil if necessary. Stir in the mint and chives.Pour the juice off the grapefruit sections and reserve for another use. Combine the grapefruit with the avocado and dress with some of the vinaigrette. Toss the greens with the rest of the vinaigrette and lay them on salad plates. Set the grapefruit and avocado slices in and among the leaves. Add black pepper to taste and serve.Make 4 to 6 small salads.Per serving (based on 6): 230 calories, 3 g protein, 9 g carbohydrates, 22 g fat, 1 mg cholesterol, 2 g saturated fat, 101 mg sodium, 9 g dietary fiber.