When we outgrow the notion that a board plunked atop a couple cinder blocks is "furniture," we're ready for a bookcase with permanence and style.
So gather your tools and clear a weekend. What starts out as a collection of "stuff" and a vague idea on Friday evening will be transformed into an attractive and functional bookcase by noon Sunday.
The beauty of building your own bookcase is that you can customize it to fit odd spaces in your home and the books you plan to stack on it.
Determine the dimensions (height and width) of your finished project before purchasing materials. Decide, too, if you want fixed or adjustable shelving. The following plan is for a fixed-shelf bookcase.
Remember these general woodworking tips:
Sketch out a detailed plan, complete with measurements and a supply list.
The dimension of a piece of wood is given in its nominal size. Its actual size is less than the nominal size. A 2-by-4 piece of lumber actually measures 1 1/2 inches by 3 1/2 inches.
Lumber is sold in 2-foot increments. Long lengths of lumber are typically cheaper than two shorter lengths.
Choose lumber that is as straight, smooth and knot-free as possible. Pine is an excellent choice for first-time furniture builders.
Wear eye protection as needed.
Measure twice and cut once.
Take your time you have all weekend.
Friday night
Gather the tools.
Wood glue
Ruler or tape measure
Phillips head screwdriver
Saw
Drill and bits: a variable-speed drill with Phillips bit is helpful
Sandpaper: 120-grit for rough sanding, 220-grit for finishing work
Get the building materials.
Lumber: 1-by-10 boards (3/4 inch thick by 9 1/2 inches wide). The total length will depend upon bookcase dimensions.
Angle brackets: 1 1/2-inch brackets (four per shelf)
Corner braces: 3/4 inch wide by 3 inches (four)
Screws: Phillips head No. 6 wood screws in three sizes: 1 1/2 inches (12 total), 1 inch (16 total) and 1/2 inch (16 per shelf)
Finish (paint or stain)
Saturday
Prepare the lumber.
Cut two lengths of lumber for the sides of the bookcase. The finished height of the bookcase will equal this length plus the thickness of the top and bottom boards. For example, if the desired finished height is 48 inches, cut the side boards 46 1/2 inches.
Cut two pieces for the top and bottom of the bookcase. The length will be the finished width of the bookcase.
Sand the rough edges of the boards, with the grain of the wood, using 120-grit sandpaper.
Drill three holes, equally spaced, along the right side and three holes along the left side of the top board (six holes total). Place these holes 3/8 inch from the edges of the board. Use a smaller drill bit than the diameter of the screws. Repeat for the bottom board.
Assemble the bookcase.
Start screws (No. 6 by 1 1/2 inches) into the drill holes in the top board.
Run a bead of glue along the top edge of the side boards.
Position the top board so the drill holes are centered on the top edge of the sideboards.
Screw in wood screws using the Phillips head screwdriver or drill.
Repeat this process to attach the bottom board.
Lay the bookcase face down. Attach corner braces to all four corners using No. 6 by 1-inch screws.
Measure the inside width of the bookcase along the top or bottom to determine shelf length. Cut lumber for shelves. Sand with 120-grit paper.
Attach the angle brackets to the inside of the side boards at the desired height for each shelf. Place two brackets one in front and one at the back on each sideboard. Use No. 6 by 1/2-inch screws. (Lay the bookcase on its side for easier attachment.)
Insert and attach shelves to the angle brackets using No. 6 by 1/2-inch screws. (Squeeze the side boards together for a tight fit.)
Finish it.
Lightly sand with 220-grit sandpaper.
Paint or stain all wood surfaces. (Stain requires a finish coat. Paint needs a primer coat first.) Let dry overnight.
Sunday
Move bookcase to desired location and fill it with your favorite books.
Carol Boncella is education coordinator at Lawrence Memorial Hospital and home and garden writer for the Journal-World.
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