Concord, N.H. ? For Peter Berley, good vegetarian cooking comes down to the same basic principles as any other cuisine  tools, technique and history.

It’s pretty simple, really. Without the proper tools and techniques, the best ingredients can turn out lackluster. In addition, a dish steeped in history and culture provides both depth of flavor and meaning.

“A good recipe should really spell that out,” Berley said in a recent interview from his home in Dobbs Ferry, N.Y. “You may not be seeing it on the page, but it should imply it.”

Berley, who is following his award-winning “The Modern Vegetarian Kitchen” with a new book on seasonal and speedy vegetarian cooking, said none of those principles should intimidate the home cook.

For vegetarian cooking, particularly, only a few basic tools are essential. These include good knives, a food processor, plenty of stainless-steel bowls, measuring instruments and heavy-bottomed pots and pans.

As for knowing what to do with that equipment: Spending time in the kitchen is one of the best ways to learn. Berley is talking about more basic stuff here than fancy knife work.

“Technique really comes through an understanding of the principles of cooking: how to use water, how to use heat, how to modulate heat, how to use salt, how to use acid, how to use fat and how to use time,” he said.

For a dish that relies on basic tools and techniques but packs plenty of flavor, try Berley’s rigatoni with cauliflower, pine nuts and raisins, a winter dish with strong Italian and North African influences.

The Parmesan cheese can be replaced with a soy alternative, or left out. Berley also suggests substituting dried apricots for the raisins to give the dish a lighter feel.

Rigatoni With Cauliflower, Pine Nuts And Raisins

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(Preparation time 40 minutes)

2 tablespoons salt

1 small cauliflower, cored and separated into about 4 cups of florets

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 large onion, diced

1/4 cup pine nuts

3 garlic cloves, chopped

2 large bay leaves

1/2 teaspoon saffron

1/2 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes

3 tablespoons tomato paste

1/2 cup raisins

1/2 cup water

1/3 cup dry white wine

3/4 pound rigatoni

1/4 cup finely chopped fresh parsley

freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese, for garnish

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add salt. When water returns to a boil, add the cauliflower and blanch for 2 minutes. Remove the cauliflower and set aside. Reserve the water for cooking the pasta.

In a wide, heavy saute pan, warm the oil over a medium flame. Add the onion and a pinch of salt. Saute 5 to 7 minutes, or until softened. Add the pine nuts, garlic, bay leaves, saffron and red pepper flakes and saute for 2 minutes.

Stir in the tomato paste, raisins, water and wine. Raise the heat and bring the sauce to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, add the cauliflower and simmer, covered, for 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, return the cauliflower water to a boil. Add the rigatoni and cook 10 minutes. Drain the pasta and add it to the pot with the sauce. Simmer 3 to 5 minutes, or until pasta is tender.

Add the parsley and pepper. Top with Parmesan cheese.

Makes 4 servings.