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First your cat disemboweled the couch and then he clawed hieroglyphics onto the antique furniture. We may not like it, but cats have a strong desire to scratch it's an inherited, normal behavior.

A cat normally chooses a prominent vertical object to scratch and returns again and again to the same location for example, a tree. The front claws are extended, gripping the surface, and are withdrawn and extended alternately. This action leaves a prominent visual mark and an olfactory mark from secretions of the sweat glands in the paws.

This scratching action also aids in the conditioning of claws by removing old, frayed and loose layers of claw and exposing the sharp, healthy, new claw underneath. (Cats also chew the old claw off while grooming themselves.)

The instinct to scratch starts about a month after birth, so rather than trying to stop them from scratching, we need to teach a cat to scratch in places that are OK to the human family. Our goal should be to teach a cat, starting as a kitten, to scratch appropriately. Declawing should be considered a procedure of last resort. It is far better to find an object for them to scratch that is mutually acceptable, such as a scratching post.

Setting limits

How can you get a cat to use a scratching post? Have what Dr. Rolan Tripp refers to as the "designated kitten-proof area" or "Safe Room" (meaning the furniture and cat are independently safe). When training or retraining your cat to use a scratching post, don't let them have the run of the house limit the size of the room (smaller is better) or remove acceptable scratching surfaces from the area. If accidents happen, go back to smaller access and increase as correct clawing occurs.

Because cats frequently scratch and stretch after waking, put the post close to the cat's sleeping place.

Some cats prefer free-standing sleeping perches and climbing areas, whereas others like a post that is hung on furniture or on a door. Good materials for scratching have sisal, cardboard, wood or wood composite surfaces. Please note, unless the scratching post is completely destroyed, don't replace it. Most cats prefer a post that is worn, stringy and easy to rip. Along with surface texture, location, habit, visual and olfactory marks attract the cat back to the same location.

Consider multiple posts with different scratching surfaces (rope, bark, wood, etc.).

Offer a reward

If the cat is reluctant to use the scratching post, positive reinforcement (rewards) should be used to make the post more appealing. Use food or a toy as a lure to get the cat to approach the post. Hold the lure part way up the post and wait until the cat stretches or scratches before giving it the reward.

Dr. Wayne Hunthausen, a well-known veterinary behaviorist, recommends giving your kitty a little treat if he looks at the post, a bigger treat if he touches it and a huge food reward if he uses it.

If the post has ledges or platforms, food, toys or catnip can be placed on the ledges or hung from the post.

Lift the cat, then when putting it down, lower it so that it grabs the post with its claws.

Rubbing the cat's paws gently on the post helps provide visual and olfactory cues that may attract the cat back for future scratching.

If the cat can't be closely supervised, it should be left with its scratching post in a designated kitten-proof area where unwanted damage cannot occur. This area should contain the cat's bedding, food, water, litter pan and toys.

If you can't get kitty to scratch appropriately, you have several options.

You can remove their claws, cover them over with protective caps such as Soft Paws or trim their nails frequently. (Note: Soft Paws work great on many cats, but not on ones that are difficult or resist having their nails trimmed.)

Dr. Marty Becker is a veterinary contributor to ABC-TV's "Good Morning America."