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Archive for Wednesday, October 18, 2000

Tequila!

Liquor figures in novel approach to cooking

October 18, 2000

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— Impossible dreams do come true. Consider Carlos Haro Jr., owner of Casablanca Mexican restaurant in Venice. As a boy, Haro wanted to become a writer, but his parents said no: Writers don't make money. So Haro studied law in Guadalajara, Mexico, where he was born.

"All the time I felt that my career was different from the law," he says. Casting about for other work, Haro became a basketball coach at the Universidad Autonoma de Guadalajara, then he came to Los Angeles to study sports administration.

Tequila is a driving force in these dishes adding flavor as well as
character. Clockwise from lower left: Ceviche Tostada, Strawberry
Bunuelos, Shrimp With Coconut.

Tequila is a driving force in these dishes adding flavor as well as character. Clockwise from lower left: Ceviche Tostada, Strawberry Bunuelos, Shrimp With Coconut.

Today, Haro is neither a lawyer nor a coach but a writer, with two novels under his belt and a third in progress. He also has worked his way from bus boy and taco stand manager to proprietor in restaurants established by members of his family.

Do the novels make money? No. "I mostly give them away to schools," Haro says. He takes the books, which are written in Spanish, to elementary schools and he stages programs with music and food. "If this person can do it, I can," is the message he wants students to absorb.

"I talk about how important it is to read, to follow your dreams, to stay in school," he says.

Haro's second novel, "Tequila," appeared in May. "Cocula," his first, came out in 1998. Both interlace absorbing, romantic stories with descriptions of Mexican life and culture, liberally peppered with references to food.

By page 10 in "Tequila," the reader learns how to marinate "huachinango" (red snapper) with lime juice, tequila, basil, garlic, salt and white pepper before grilling it. A segment that takes place in a "panaderia" (bakery) introduces the imaginative names of "pan dulce" (Mexican sweet breads), among them "colchones," "cuernos," "chamucos," "hojaldres," "picones," "ladrillos" and "semitas."

A character with a prodigious appetite breakfasts on tamales, tacos, "chilaquiles," pan dulce, cookies, hot chocolate, milk and "atole," then consumes eggs, refried beans with "longaniza," tortillas and coffee. For the afternoon "comida" (meal), he has "cocido" (a meat and vegetable stew), "pollo a la Valentina" (a Guadalajara specialty chicken with a sauce of tomatoes, onions and mild green chilies combined with fried potatoes), beans and enchiladas with lots of cheese. Supper includes "sopes," tacos and tostadas topped with pigs' feet, followed by "flautas" with green sauce and "cotija" cheese, more tacos and, for dessert, "arroz con leche," 10 "bunuelos" and "jericalla" (a custard similar to flan but without caramel sauce, and steamed rather than baked, then browned on top).

A woman named Jacinta, based on Haro's mother, takes the reader on a tour of the traditional Mexican kitchen. In town, she encounters vendors selling "pozole," "moles," tortilla soup, beans and many other dishes. In another episode, she views an altar loaded with food offerings for the Day of the Dead, including pozole, mole, beans with chorizo, enchiladas, sopes and flautas.

Novelist and restaurateur Carlos Haro, in the tequila bar at his
Casablanca Mexican restaurant, has written a Spanish-language book,
"Tequila." The book is infused with foods and flavors of the
Mexican town that is the center of tequila production for Jalisco.

Novelist and restaurateur Carlos Haro, in the tequila bar at his Casablanca Mexican restaurant, has written a Spanish-language book, "Tequila." The book is infused with foods and flavors of the Mexican town that is the center of tequila production for Jalisco.

The novel is set in the town of Tequila, which is the center of tequila production in the state of Jalisco. That gives Haro a framework for explaining how tequila is made and how, in some cases, it has deteriorated from a beverage made entirely from agave to agave liquor blended with other liquors and coloring.

The tequila theme fits in with his own interest in the beverage. Casablanca stocks 150 tequilas.

Haro has developed ceviche marinated with tequila, orange and lime juices; fish marinated with tequila, lime juice, basil and oyster sauce a dish influenced by Chinese immigrants to Mexico and shrimp cooked with tequila and the liquid drained from a fresh coconut.

He has created a dessert of bunuelos topped with strawberries, whipped cream and a strawberry liqueur that contains tequila.

It took Haro two years to finish "Cocula," which focuses on the origins of mariachi music but also brings in food and tequila. "Some nights I threw away all the papers into the garden," Haro says. His daughter would retrieve the pages and return them the next day.

"I was insecure," he says. "With 'Tequila,' I have more experience. I did a better job."

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