Archive for Thursday, March 5, 1998


March 5, 1998


— A choice of seating arrangements and menu options give diners a truly unique experience.

Shogun, a Japanese restaurant in Topeka, has been open for 2 1/2 years, but just lately seems to have captured the attention of Lawrence patrons.

Word has been spreading quickly about the restaurant's beautiful atmosphere, excellent service and incredible sushi.

There are several dining areas on the right side of the restaurant, complete with communal seating and Teppan grills, where cooks prepare the food with flash and style before your eyes. On the left side is a beautiful sushi bar with individual tables.

Anywhere you sit you'll have the option of a sushi menu or the regular menu, which also includes sushi.

Sushi is really an art form: rice, cucumbers, crab and avocado, all meticulously placed and rolled and cut up into small pieces.

For those unfamiliar with traditional Japanese food, the California Roll is a great starting point. The more adventurous might try the sushi and sashimi combination, a stunning arrangement of bite-sized treasures: Crab placed atop a bit of rice, a rectangle of egg neatly tied to its bed of rice with a bit of seaweed and sashimi, or raw fish, including salmon, tuna and squid.

Also on the platter are two essential items: delicious pickled ginger and pungent green wasabi. Both are used to your taste, along with a little soy sauce, to accent the food.

How does a restaurant in the middle of Kansas manage to serve such fantastic seafood so far from the sea?

Manager Ken Ho explained, "We pay a lot of money to get fish delivered three times a week -- every Monday, Wednesday and Friday."

The restaurant is run by family members and the effort they put into the endeavor shows in every aspect, from the traditional clothing the cooks and servers wear to the incredible variety of food offered.

For the less adventurous, the restaurant still dazzles with filet mignon, lobster and a Chicken Teriyaki that comes with incredible rice. Most meals include a delicate soup, small vegetable or other salad and end with an orange, expertly carved and quartered for easy consumption.

Shogun even offers a few dishes for children. Ho recommends the California Roll, eel and crab for those unfamiliar with sushi, but says his personal favorite is Uni, or sea urchin. This, he explained with a smile, is regarded in Japan as an aphrodisiac.

Whether you're looking for baby octopus salad in a sesame and peanut sauce (it tastes a little like shrimp) or a perfect filet mignon, Shogun provides a truly unique and gratifying dining experience.

--The Mag's phone message number is 832-7146. Send e-mail to

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